October 26th Seoul, Korea, 14 600 km

October 21st 2010

I have a sea sickness and hardly can stand all this pitching & rolling. Even a simple vertigo in a park or riding on a car backseat drive me seasick. Especially Toyota Crown (Hello, Kolya!) The ferry moored in Donghae.  It’s fog it rains but warm. Still there were more serious reasons to worry than seasickness – I had no Korean visa and I was warned in an embassy that my sojourn in Korea can be cancelled. Still I had a transit admittance, an airplane ticket and god’s assistance on my side. Hope that this very  coincidence made them to give me one month visa. This was a little victory!

But the most significant victory was later. It happened after the customs officers confiscated my sausages (excepting one I forgot about). It was my motorcycle. I was going to take it, get it customs-cleared, and find out whether I can ride it. Unlike Russia, the procedures took only half an hour: I paid a duty, and insurance (a green card in Korea is not valid). A moment of disturb – will I be admitted to drive?  This was a crucial question but I screwed on my courage and asked. After a while an officer in charge entered a cabinet and told me that considering my tense tour program they wil make an exception amd I will be allowed to ride on my own! I was given some authorizing paper, then some papers again and was wished goodspeed!

That was the Victory!

Seoul, get ready!!

Since Sang Jung is a government employee he is very busy. Since that I was met by his friends who showed me the way to Seoul. We became acquainted and payed a visit to a little restaurant with just-cooked meal I call Paradise. We had to be ready for a long road to Seoul – 300 km is pretty much for local inhabitants. It took 5 hours on a perfect road with perfect lights, marks and all the rest.

Sang Jung waited us at the entrance to Seoul. That was really warm and hearty meeting!!! At once we visited another “paradise” and tasted Korean cuisine.

I felt tired from sea sickness and night riding on perfect but still uneasy road. In the evening my bike occupied a parking slot and I occupied one of four rooms in Sang Jung parent’s home. An sms to Malinka, shower and lights out.

October 22nd 2010

Sang Jung has a day-off and we went to a stomatologist  to cure my wicked tooth. We went by a subway. It’s full of stations and is easy to make your own causeway. It costs $1 and tooth doctor’s costs were $100 since this case is out of general insurance I paid at the customs.

In the evening Sang Jung take me to a wonderful place called Seafood Market.  This is a king of paradise!!!  We bought some crab, tuna and some unfamiliar fish. All this was coked on the second floor. I love Korea!!

Have you noticed me stopped using “South Korea”? While talking to my Korean friends I was told that the Koreans feel their land as one. The division in North and South is ill and wrong. Since that in conversation it is used to say Korea.

October 23rd 2010

A day at the races

Got up at 5 am. Today we go to see the Korea F1 championship! On a newly-built track!

This race has become a kind of national feast. On Saturday there was  a qualification. It took about 3 hours to get from Seoul to Ying-Jeong – it’s nearly 300 km. It’s fast and safe to ride Korean highway.

The event was really voercrouded by fans from aroung the world and nearly lying provinces. Prople of all ages were there. For a number of them it was the first races they see. It’s a spectacular event that makes you hold your breath to suffocation. At the sight of approaching bolide the audience uttered a howl that oversounded the engine roar!! Powerful, overwhelming exciting. We came back to Seoul at late evening to come to food paradise and have a sleep. The day was perfect the same as the previous and the next seem to be. The thought is material, do you remember? Yeongam,  Jeollanam-do province

October 24th 2010

I got acquainted to Jung’s parents. They are intelligent and educated people. As Sang jung they are civil servicemen but unfortunately they don’t speak English. By the waythere is not so many English-speakers in Korea, so one couldn’t do without a guide. There is no English labels in shops, so it’s pretty hard to handle some particular issues.

Today we are going to meet local motorcyclists and have a ride around the town. It’s not so hard when you are not alone.  I made a call to Justin who was my companion on the way from Birobidjan to Irkutsk last year.He lives in Daegu, 280 km from Seoul. I decided to visit him there and spend couple of days there. The guys tried to reason me out of riding by bike  because of the prohibition to ride the motorcycles down the highways. There are a lot of second-grade roads, but there are only small towns with no English-speakers.  They tried to persuade me to take train…. but am I not a moto-traveller?! So I decided to take a chance. So, My friends provided me with GPS device with Korea map downloaded but ut turned out non to wave a map in English. And my Korean dictionary has only one slot with  “Khamz’A mid’A “ (Thank you). Anyway, I am a traveler, not a tourist. I’ll ride to Justin in Daegu on my own.

October 25th 2010

The start was delayed because I wanted to sleep more. Jung is still at work, his father has fed me with breakfast.  We had a small talk about Korea and Ukraine and some other issues. Since I weak in Korean and Jung’s father doesn’t speak English we used an international gesture language mostly being invented during conversation. First kilometers with Korean-speaking GPS were not easy. It may seem not too complicated – just  follow the arrow. But there are plenty traffic  junctures, interchanges and other things that may easily make one lose his way by circles to be made if a needed juncture is missed.

Actually most problem made getting out of the city. Following the GPS it is 291 km between Justin and Jung. After 2 hours of straying the city it showed 290 km! I was nearly in panic – if it will go on in the same manner, I would better take train.

The further the tougher – a GPS led me to a highway. I have no right to ride there, but also I had no idea where is the road I can ride along. At the pass station no one speaks English… a wave of panic was really close. I just set on a roadside at the bar and just can’t figure out what to do. I even did not come out of the city! A flock of road servicemen are twittering and waving hands trying to tell that I can’t go further. In response I try to show them that I know that I can’t but they still are excited. It’s boring and enduring! To my happiness an English-speaking guy appeared to pass nearly. He told me that a turn to second-grade road is behind the corner of a big building. I was allowed to pass over a road border and here I am on the road again! The road #23

I rode five hours reading the traffic tables and keeping within needed direction and finally rode in to Daegu. Justin is English-lecturer in Daegu university. It was so great to meet a friend a year later! Having had a supper in a cuisine-paradise we met his friends – also English teachers. One of them was from New-York and another came from Texas and they work at the university for some more than five years. They told me that after years of living in Korea their bodies are severely depleted with American “true” beer. They were suffering so hard that managed to brew at home in non-laboratory conditions. After trying some I found out that the guys succeeded! Then it was my turn and I gave them my drink made by Unkle Vova. By the NVC on their faces I understood – it was a fit answer! As for the rest – My English has improved for this five days. I consider thet having come to Ukraine I will speak it better than my native one. The autumn is warm and the leafs are still green. It’s too soon for the yellow to appear. In the day it is +20…25 C-degree and in the evening it’s about +12.

October 26th 2010

I’ve been sleeping all day long. Justin is at the lectures. I saw him only in the evening. We chattered a bit, have had a supper and fell asleep as earlier as possible – in the scope of tomorrow’s events it seemed to be useful. Are you intricated?

October 27th 2010

I bet you are! Because today I will play English-lecturer at the university!! My schoolteachers would be proud ))

At the university I was introduced as a traveler from Ukraine. Two hours flew in the twinkling of the eye. I showed my website and photographs widescreen commenting on certain moments. It was wonderful – especially when the audience was sitting with eyes and mouths wide opened.

After a lecture Justin offered me to have a ride. That night I should be at Seoul, so I choose a road having laid it along the east coast. We rode about 150 km, have had a super at a roadside café and I headed to the capital. This way seemed to be easier – it takes no GPS to ride Korea! It’s enough to plan the route, write down the road numbers and keep one’s eyes opened in order not to miss the turn – there is a plenty of traffic signs. By this means I returned to Seoul having flew 600 km without GPS. The more complicated things are the easier they are solved!

Supper, skyping to Malinka, sms to the parents and lights out… I got tired today

October 28th 2010

Jung woke me up at 2 pm. If not for him I’d sleep more. Today we gp to BMW office that generously offered me to arrange my bike’s transportation. Actually they would give me a platform and tare to pack my bike. Jack and Ray! Thank you anf the other guys for helping me! Many thanks to Cheoul Khou Lee  – a station director for an opportunity to prepare my bike. My Africa was cleaned, all liquids were removes, the platic components were removed and packed separately. And all this stuff was installed on a wooden floor. A truck arrived and took my cargo to deliverance company. In the evening Ray invited us to have a supper to his little restaurant. What a delicious cuisine!.. What an amount of food is taken up here in Korea!..

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That’s the way to ship our bikes on a ferry

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A tourist from Sweden

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And another one from Australia

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On the left there are two Polish guys who had left their bikes in Vladivostok and gone hitchhiking further in Asia. A super on the ferry. It’s a bottle of homemade wine given by Viktor from Svetlogorye. Thank you, Viktor – it was wonderful!

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I just like this photograph

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Guys from Seoul meet me in Donghae

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Ready for adventures

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At the “paradise”

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The “paradise” inhabitants

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Friends)  They are really good guys.  Besides they speak English and it is very useful! It was a great and lavish meal…)

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I wanted to take it with me, but I was told that it’s plenty of them in Seoul

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Sang Joon is on my right

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Korean national cuisine paradise

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A night in Seoul…Late night

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It’s gonna be started now. And I’m not afraid of the dentists. Not so…

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Started soon is ended soon. Yahoo! It’s a well-equipped and skilled approach to the dental medicine. It makes clear why the Korean medicine is respected. And all the eastern one too

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McDonald’s appeared to be here too. And it tastes the same way as in Kiev. The prices however are not.  Biggggger!

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A subway station. One can enter to the van only when the glass doors are opened. Anna Karenina no passaran!

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Seoul subway scheme

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The Korean friends are looking at Africa. They  ven are smacking! They seem to like it.

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A seafood market.

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Whatever you wish. I’d live there

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There is nothing more amusing and sad and amusing than a cat on a chain at the fish market!

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That guy was taken home

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And that tuna-fish was eaten raw. It was my rirst experience. As for me a boiled crab or shrimp tastes mush better but for them it’s the most delicious meal. After an Ukrainian sausage of course)

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There is a vast amount of restaurants where the seafood is cooked in-situ.  They are crowded and  it’s pretty loud there.

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Heads of raw-eaten fishes are being boiled here.

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Noone is dead, it’s a festive wreath!!!

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Black & white. We rode by his car to the races. He’s a very good guy!

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Joon told me that reserve army-servicemen (demobs) just help to manage the traffic.  It’s too much people wishing to see the races

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The Korean  fighters perform aerobatics before the start of the races

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Sang Joon sees the F1 races at the first time! He feels happy

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This man has spent the races looking at the stands. He didn’t pay  a single sight to the races. He has so kind tired eyes

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It’s the first race for everyone

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And for her too

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And it seems to be Shumacher in his own

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There are a lot of scooters in Korea. Even overtuned.

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There are a lot of bikers. Of such kind

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…and even of such one

The other photographs will be put here later)

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